Eppy Rolls - A tribute to a delicious hand-held treat

" The EL" Cresent Street Station on the J line.

There were several great pizza parlors in the old neighborhood. The old neighborhood was Cypress Hills in Brooklyn also known as East New York. Ernesto Pizza on Hemlock Street and Ridgewood Ave. There were a few great stores on Fulton Street. Jacks was on Fulton off Pine Street and a hungry sixth grader could get his fill for a buck.Jacks was under the El. Jacks was a typical joint, counter in the front with the double decker Bakers Pride Pizza Ovens. Jacks had about 12 tables in the back. Blessed Sacrament was around the corner. That meant that Jacks was a five-minute walk from the school. Two slices of cheese and a small soda was 80 cents. That left 20 cents change from the dollar I got for lunch money. A small chocolate Italian ice was an awesome treat for those last 20 pennies. The short walk to Jacks and the fact that pizza could be served and devoured quickly left more time for pre-adolescent mischief. Some of those Catholic schoolboy escapades may be discussed in a future post. Picture courtesy of the East New York Project.

Further east on Fulton Street between Hemlock and Autum was another awesome pizza place. The name escapes me at the moment. Maybe Joes, maybe Mikes, I am not 100 % sure. What set this pizzeria apart from the rest was their Sicilian, a crusty, doughy, square which I deemed the best in the neighborhood. The pie man was a big gruff dude with a 1970’s porn star mustache. He would berate me when I ordered a “corner piece of pizza”. “It’s a slice!” He would demand. I enjoyed pissing him off, so I continued that annoyance into my teenage years. But this story is not about Sicilian pizza, it’s not even about pizza at all. This posting is about a tasty treat not very well known and made at some establishments but not all. It is about the Eppy (Eppie) Roll.

The Eppy Roll was some yeasty pizza dough wrapped around Italian Sausage with peppers, onions and of course mozzarella cheese. The ends were usually open, and the well-done crusty sausage stuck out of both sides. There are several rumors about how Eppy Roll got its name. Some say it was short for pepperoni. You know those folks, the illiterate ones. I read that some old school Italian Restaurants in Buffalo take credit for its innovation. Others remark that it was the economical nature of the handheld that attracted the flower generation of the 1970s. Specifically the Hippies, yes, some places even called it a Hippie Roll. For about a buck you could get sweet or hot. This place. JoeMikes’s did not sauce the roll itself but served the marinara on the side. That was my preference. I also remember spinach and even chicken fillings but my “go to” was always the sausage. Longing for some nostalgia I decided to try my hand at the re-creation of these savory little pouches of my youth. I set out to our local butcher A-Z Meats on Route 1 in Stafford. A few pounds of Zacks zesty awesome house-made sausage and I was on my way!

The dough recipe I will share another time. I used Caputo’s double zero flour and yeast. I made some extra to stash away in the freezer for pizza night. I like to brown the sausages on the outside, but I leave them a little rarer in the middle to allow the wonderful porky fat and spices to leech onto the bread as it bakes. Not everyone will condone my next step. I allow the sausages to cool off and I slice them long ways. I spread out the rectangles of well risen dough. I add the sliced sausage, top it off with an array of colorful sauteed pepper and onions and add some cheese. (Polly-O of course) I am of the opinion that slicing the sausages adds a little something to the mouth feel without totally compromising the “snap” of the natural casing.

I baked the rolls at 405 for about 22 minutes, on the middle rack. I finished them with a quick egg wash, some shredded Locatelli Romano and a sprinkle of poppy seeds. I made these dudes a bit more substantial then the OG Hot Pockets from the 70s. I also failed at the open ends on a few of these rolls. But they were delicious and each bite brough my back home to the Borough of Kings.

I had to put one away for my boy Kenny because he was away in some exotic place. Awesome memories and awesome tastes. Its what life is all about. TTFN from TFN.

Tito Mel's Filipino Food - Luther Gelen VA.

We had the opportunity to visit Tito Mel’s Filipino Food in Luther Glen. We traveled south on route 1 and found this awesome place less than a mile from the Spotsylvania line. We barely got through the door before front man Justin welcomed us with a smile and a hearty hello. The place was bright and impeccably clean. We watched as a young man picked up his order at the counter. Justin says “ I feel like I have seen you a lot this week” Dude says” I have eaten here everyday this week!. I love this place” That states volumes for a food business. We were looking to take out some entrees and sides for Friday night dinner. We rattled off a pretty good order, trying to taste as many different dishes as possible. Lumpia Shanghai Chicken and Lumpia Gülay (veggie). Both appetizers were crispy with generous portions and seasoned perfectly. We ordered noodles, Pancit Bihon was delicious with a julienne of vegetable on top. Palabok, I believe, was the rice noodles with pork and shrimp, garnished with a hardboiled egg. Both dishes were outstanding! The Pork Dingtaw with bell peppers and oyster sauce had that awesome Unami mouth feel. The big winners here were the BBQ Skewers, and the Empanadas. As a matter of fact, I don’t think the empanadas were even on the printed menu. But they were there, calling us from the steam table. I believe the dough was corn (masa?) based and had an almost sweet crunch. The empanadas were closer to calzone size than your average empanada. We ordered a couple of other chicken dishes including coconut curry chicken. All outstanding! This was obviously a family business which can often be a challenge. Tito Mel’s, however, had everyone on the same page. Carla (Justins wife) was fun and bubbly and going at about 100 MPH. As customers would come in, if they did not have exactly what the customer wanted ready or what was ready was past its prime, they made fresh. I believe there were a couple of other folks in the kitchen. This family had a shared passion and respect for their food. When I used to teach high schoolers (prospective culinary students) I would ask “When a customer purchases food from you aside from money, what else does that person give you?” Hands would raise, answers would fly and some of the responses were pretty good. A compliment! A High Five! A really good tip! I would explain that yes all of those things are true. And the customer is also putting their trust in you. Trusting you to treat them and their food with respect. Tito Mel’s has it all! The passion. the respect, the fun! And we hope it continues for many years.

Tito Mels! Doing it right in so many ways! Be Smart-Be Fast- Be Funny! Be Well ! Dave

Anthony's on the Hill - Church Hill Richmond Va. Lost in the archives

I dug this out of a file. I never published it. Enjoy!

  

I am a pizza guy. I love pizza. I have had a deep rooted love affair with pizza since I was a small (but round) child. Cypress Hills was the Brooklyn neighborhood where I grew up and there were 6 pizza parlors. At Jack's Pizza on Fulton Street off Pine Street, you could get 2 slices and a small coke for 80 cents. That left 20 cents for an Italian ice or some zeppole. This made for an awesome lunch for a Catholic school kid in the 1970’s. Pizza is a comfort food for me. At Ernesto’s on Hemlock Street and Ridgewood Ave the Sicilian slice was doughy and moist. If you wanted a crispy crust you ordered a corner slice. If you wanted that thick doughy goodness you asked for a middle slice. I believe Ernesto's son was Masimo. 

That is where it all began, my love affair with pizza. At one point in eighth grade my mother Rita gave me $4.00 for a haircut. I took the money and did my own “taste test” of three of six Pizzerias. It was the search for the perfect Sicilian slice. I took my buddy Gaspar and we had a Sicilian and a small coke at three places and Ernesto’s won. Gaspar and I went back to his folks place and he cut my hair with sewing shears in an attempt to conceal the conspiracy. When I arrived back home at dark-thirty Rita did her usual inspection of my choppy haircut. Ragged and uneven it did not pass muster. I told mom that Leo the Barber was having a bad day. I said "Ma I think he was drinking." That did not fly, and Rita was not happy.

Fast forward to current day and thousands of pies and slices later I consider myself a good judge of good pizza. One weekday night (in 2016] we took a ride to Richmond to check out Anthony’s on the Hill. Anthony’s on the Hill is a fantastic neighborhood place in the Church Hill section of Richmond. Chris and Kathleen have become fast friends of Richmond since Chris has been attending VCU. Kathleen’s friend works at Anthony’s on the Hill for lunch. The family had been there before without me and I wanted to experience the place myself. There was a horrible accident of I-95 and we were stuck in traffic for an hour. Anthony’s was closing but they stayed open late for us. And I am glad they did.

I could talk about the ambiance, the charm, or the cool location on a neighborhood block in Church Hill surrounded by great historic multi-family homes. But this is about the pizza.

We ordered three large pies and HSBCP ordered a large Greek Salad, which was huge, appealing and enough for everyone to have a taste.

• “Three Meat” – Sausage, Pepperoni & razor thin slices of Prosciutto. The Prosciutto curled up from the extreme heat of the oven and became crisp and awesomely delicious. The oils from the sausage and pepperoni added that meaty goodness to the cheese and dough as it cooked.

• “The Greek” – Kalamata Olives- Feta-Pepperoncini - Red Onion and Mozzarella. Awesome combination! I love Feta and this pie had plenty of it. The olives added a salty earthy flavor while the red onion in contrast provided some sweetness. The pepperoncini offered a great finish flavor with a little spice.

• “Anthonys’ Special” – Fresh Tomato-Black Olives-Capers and Fresh Basil. Truly a Special Pie! A classic Margherita with a twist. The addition of black olives and capers offered a mouth feel that was savory and salty in relation to the sweet sauce. A chiffonade of fresh Basil closed the deal.

The sauce is house made and you can tell the love and experience that goes into making it. Sweet and flavorful, the component of the marinara brought this pizza to the next level.

The super star of this place however is the dough. Freshly prepared daily, the dough is obviously a labor of love for Michael the owner. I watched as he hand tossed the dough and created these memorable pies and checked their doneness throughout the cooking process. He rotated and checked the bottom of each pie and moved them around in the oven to verify the crust was just right. As I observed I realized Michael was a true “Pie Whisperer”. His intense scrutiny made me believe that Michael made each pie a personal statement whether it was the first pie of the day, or in our case the last pie of the night. Our pizza came to the table baked to perfection with random caramelized bubbles of dough and cheese formed from the hot spots in the oven. The yeasty flavor and crispness reminded me of New Haven Style pizza but with a heartier slightly thicker crust. Michael and I spoke briefly and he mentioned his family was from New York. I thought to myself “aren’t all great pie men from New York?”

It was a great night! And I got to watch a true passionate professional at work.

When in Richmond take some time and make your way the Anthony’s on the Hill. You will be happy you did!

Unfortunatley this place has closed. He has whipered off into a well deserved retirement.

Happy Mothers Day 2024

Quite appropriate for the first new post in more than 10 years is published on and about Mother’s Day. I have written several good notes about MD over the years. This past year we found out that our good friend and former neighbor Marilyn had passed in California. When we moved to Virginia, we met Marilyn and Jim Whalen. We became fast friends and kind of adopted each other. Jim sponsored me in the Lions Club, and Marilyn we she was awesome! Jim passed; Marilyn moved away. She went to live near her daughter in California. Specifically, Pasadena. Yup at that point Marilyn became a little old lady from Pasadena- We did visit once, and she was living in a sweet little cottage across from her family. She had a chubby orange cat and dozens of plants and flowers. –Marilyn Happy Mother’s Day!

Today I was thinking a lot about my Mom. It happens every year of course. It has been 36 years now since she moved on. I commented to my kids today that she would have loved them so much. Rita Elizabeth Smith (mommy)- 5 children and seven grandkids. We lost mommy too early. So much life was still available after her time had passed. Rita did not have an easy life. Strewn with tragedy and loss, I know that she finally found her peace. I know she did. Mommy – Happy Mother’s Day! We miss you! We love you!

My Mother-in Law Vicky. I call her mom. Strong, self-sufficient, and smart. In her younger days mom drove a bus. She also worked at Southbury Training School for many years. Tough job! But a good job! Handling and working with developmentally and sometime physically challenged adults. Boy, does she have some stories. Victoria – 4 children 11 Grands Happy Mother’s Day Mom! My baby sister Dorothy. (SIL) Fun, Funky Cool as Heck! A nurse and caretaker for the majority of the elderly and infirm in Southbury CT. We were fortunate to have Dot join us on many of our trips. Not a great deal of people know this but Dorothy has an awesome travel survival plan. When she goes away she is always brings enough Feta Cheese for everyone. You can never have too much cheese! Dot and Donny packed off their youngest, David to the USMC a couple of years ago. My Godson, the youngest looks after the farm.(Dylan) I don’t think Dot gets all of the thanks and praise she deserves. Today I say to you.I Love you my baby sister. You are doing a great job! Thank you for all you do! Dorothy – 2 Children Happy Mother’s Day Dorothy!

My daughter-in-law Mellisa. The person responsible for 2 of my favorite people in the world! Clare Dakota and Liam Walter. Hard working, tough, smart and a great mom! I see Melissa so often in Clare, when she does or says some things. A mannerism, a roll of the eyes, walking away shaking her finger in the air like she is scolding the world. And I say “OMG you get that from your Mom! I am so very proud of Mellissa. She will do well in all she sets her mind to. She is an outstanding mom, and my favorite DIL! Melissa- if you read this …. Listen carefully and hear the whisper. That is Virginia calling to you! We love you! Melissa – 2 Children Happy Mother’s Day

My wife, Victoria (BCP). The reason I am still on this earth. Funny, caring, truly a faithful person in all senses of the word. My wife is deeply passionate about her kids and grandkids. She loves family and family stuff. But Victoria has also dedicated her non-family life to kids. OPK- Other Peoples Kids. In Special Education and now Special Education Administration. That must be the mother in her. She is my hero and my heart and soul. I am truly blessed for you to be mother to my children. Vicky – 3 Children 2 Grandkids A Very Happy Mother’s Day *Note- The CCOTC (The Children of the Corn) Went shopping after church and picked up some large chunks of bovine and small crustaceans and created a delicious Surf and Turf for their Momma. see above

Happy Mothers Day to all of the awesome loving Moms out there.

                 

Hello! And Peace!

 My sincerest apologies for the ridiculous sabbatical. I would love to communicate a valid reason to have lost track of what is important due to some other stuff that may be considered more important. You know - something romantic like Federal Prison. Perhaps receiving a government grant to study the husbandry of an endangered Tibetan Yak Species. I could be like - “Hey! Sorry I haven’t written; I have been living in a yurt with a dude named Namgyal”. Nothing like that. Just working, loving my family, cooking for the people, traveling, eating well and trying to be grateful for everything we have. There is much to tell. 

To the followers- Thanks and please share my blog with those whom you think may enjoy it. There is never a better time to share then the present. If I strike a chord and you wanna say something, please add a comment. Today was an awesome day and I felt the need to post this PSA before the sun came up. Oh and eat a little crow.

Cause the larger ones are pretty tough. So please stay tuned.  

0402 Dave

Mother's Day - A Great Day with my Honey and A Wonderful Memory of a Mother's Day Past

SBCP and I spent a great day together today for Mother’s Day. She has been working really hard studying for her classes and getting ready for her Graduation and the VA. State Exam. Which she is taking next week. SBCP spent the day taking and re-taking practice tests on-line. I made her the Mother of the Bloody Marys’ in a 27 ounce mixing glass garnished with 2 U-16 Shrimp, celery and speared olives. Over 20 years of tending bar I have made a few Bloody Mary’s in my day. Sunday afternoon at the Blackwater Inn I would burn through 2- 3 gallons of BM Mix. It was homemade of course. And it was not for the timid palette. My man Big Tom was responsible for consumption of at least a gallon every Sunday. He would “troll” the Boulevard and was usually successful. But that’s a whole other Blog Post. I may explain someday. It the interim –I offer Blackwater Inns’ Sunday Bloody Mary Mix- circa 1992. Makes enough mix for 10 – 10 ounce Bloody Marys’ or enough to get Big Tom to noon- thirty (maybe)

• 2 46 oz. cans Sacramento Tomato Juice
• 8 Tbsp. prepared horse radish
• 4 oz. fresh squeezed lemon juice
• 30 hits of Worcestershire sauce
• 30 hits of Franks Hot Sauce- Tabasco or your choice of hot sauce
• Celery salt – to taste
• S & P - to taste
• Make mix up to 24 hours prior
• 3-4 ounces of good vodka per 4-6 ounces of mix.
• Mix well- shaken or stirred.
• Serve with marinated olives, a celery stalk and a couple of shrimp- perched
• Garnish glass with lemon and lime slices

The Mother of all Bloody Marys'  -

Now todays Mothers ‘Day was awesome....

I made Shrimp Cocktail – my honey’s favorite. 2 beautiful Rib eye steaks with sautéed mushroom and onions.

 


  However I think back to a previous MD posting. SBCP was not home most likely scooping up the grand babies.



It was Mother’s Day 2010. Our neighbor Marilyn and I were both going to be alone so we planned to spend the day together. Church- Lunch-and conversation. I offer you all a flash-back to MD posting May 10 2010. A truly memorable day. Good food- great conversation – unforgettable stories and unconditional love and respect from what would normally two strangers brought together by chance and circumstance.

Reposted - FROM MAY 10 2010-

I spoke through proxy to the infamous UD yesterday and he was eagerly waiting and salivating for the next TFN entry. I explained I had no real fodder for the blog. No great meals, no blockbuster recipes, no great restaurant reviews( another mental block mis- spelling spell, Imagine a guy in the food service industry for 17 plus years that can't spell restaurant ) . UD says Blog about Marilyn's cookbook. (Which will come in a later issue. So then I sit down and begin to ponder the crux of the meal itself. Not the content, not the venue, not the cost, or the dessert but the concept of the meal itself. The conversation, the camaraderie (which I can spell), the ritual of breaking bread. The ability to be at rest with those you care about and take in nourishment. A life sustaining effort, both on a physical and emotional plane. I mention this because I had a wonderful meal with my 70+ year old neighbor, Marilyn yesterday. It was Mother's Day, and we were both home alone. My Mom has been gone for a great while and Marilyn's daughter is far away. So it was a healing and bonding surrogate experience for both of us. I was originally scheduled to take her to dinner after we went to church together on Saturday night. But a surprise visit from my man LUMPY for volunteer car repair ran into the evening hours and I had to cancel. So I get up Sunday morning and call her… she says “I have some really nice hamburger meat, how about we just eat here" Now let me explain Marilyn. She was born the oldest of 14, in Colby Wisconsin. A farm girl who could drive the tractor, or birth a calf, or bake a wonderful loaf of bread from scratch. She has described a great visual of her Dad hanging onto the side of the tractor loaded with too much hay to offset the load from spilling over her dad hangs onto one side saying " Go Blondie Go… whatever happens don' t stop." Marilyn is also a smart business woman and a true spiritual soul. We feel blessed to count Marilyn as part of our family. We realized last year that fate and divine intervention had put us across from Marilyn and Jim to nurture both families. I would be remiss to mention that Jim is no longer with us and plants a huge void in our hearts every day. However during lunch the front door closed by itself as it grew a little colder which I attributed to Jim watching over us. So Marilyn and I have a great Mother's Day Bruncheon (my word). Fresh cooked hand formed burgers on the grill - 93/7 ground beef, some potato salad, beans, and a great salad with blueberries. Now the highlight of the meal was the conversation. Marilyn told some stories about business, camping, traveling and family that took us in all different directions. I countered with comparable anecdotes. We recognized some very similar tales that made me realize we experienced some shared circumstances. Useless purchases of unused trailers and campers that although well intentioned were bad decisions.

Marilyn had a great memory of renting a camper and driving to Wisconsin to see her family. (Because Jim always had to make an entrance) They rent the RV from a guy in Gainesville, they pick it up in a field behind a house where there are other campers. They pay the guy a couple thousand dollars cash, and he says drop it off here when you are done, and I will check it out and get back to you if there are any issues. They have Marilyn's daughter, her husband and two grand kids with them. They drive the camper without incident to Wisconsin. Jim makes his entrance and they head back home. On the way back the RV develops an equipment issue. They stop at an RV dealer in Minneapolis to get the part installed and make their way home. They make it back to Virginia in one piece and launch the grandkids home. The RV gets dropped off and they recommend this RV rental guy to a friend a few months later. They get a call from the Virginia State Police and are informed the Winnebago they drove to Wisconsin was stolen. The catch is the unit was stolen from the same dealer in Minnesota that they stopped at to get the part fixed. The whole family could have landed in a Minnesota jail if the dealer ran the VIN number. A great story on all levels. Shared over an impromptu meal shared by two souls brought together by fate or luck or serendipity. (Look it up). So no major recipes or big food revelations. But just an opportunity to speak to the human nature, spirituality and bonding of the MEAL . A MEAL…. the breaking of bread, the staff of life which keeps us grounded to the importance of the little things. I spoke to Marilyn about the publishing of this blog, and asked if she was ok with it. I thanked her for the company, and the meal. Marilyn says “spending time with you was like being with the son that I never had". I tell Marilyn “you are like the Mom that I no longer have “ The MEAL ….. Sometimes - it's not about the food. I thank you all for your support. My heart is with all of you.

Thanks for the attention- please don’t lose interest. I will keep you well fed.

Marilyn has since moved to be closer to her daughter in Pasadena Ca. We miss her every day. However a great young family has moved into her home, I love to hear the kid’s laughter echoing throughout the neighborhood.

I would like to pay tribute to all of the Mothers out there. It’s a full time – underpaid – under – appreciated job. You all shape the future – please keep it up!


For Rita – I love you Mom~TFN

Osteria Nino - Staffords Loss Shirlingtons Gain

 

First I must apologize for a much too extended sabbatical from the TFN blog. Sometimes life gets in the way of life and you lose track of what you enjoy and what is truly important to you. So I will try to post at least every few weeks and keep you all abreast of my adventures and my tastings.

In spite of a lack of timely postings the blog still has more than 6000 views.

 

SBCP and I recently had the opportunity to drive to Alexandria on a Sunday. Aside from I95 it was a pleasant trip and did not take 6 hours. (Which is possible in Northern Virginia on a weekend.) We were checking the travel time and route for a state test for which she was registered. We wanted to be sure the path was familiar. I had in the back of my mind to have dinner at Osteria Da Nino Cucina Italiana & Bar. Nino’s was located in Shirlington and the work home of some good friends and wonderful people. Niño Pino was the former host and part owner of Zibibbo73 in Stafford. A location I was fortunate to have worked at for a couple of years when they first opened. In the restaurant business you say “ I helped open so and so with whosit back in the day” Which means you worked at a place when they first opened. The first few months in the restaurant business are the roughest. So that statement is like a rite of passage. Working out the kinks in a restaurant is like being reborn daily. You never know what will happen on any given day.

When Nino left Zibibbo73 he took some good friends and servers from Stafford and opened Osteria Nino. The space is modern and beautiful and the tables are spaced so generously that you experience an unmistakable intimacy in a huge space.

Nino is the consummate host. He has a way with the clientele that makes you feel welcome and at home. He greeted us with warm hugs and gratitude. He was truly happy to see us! We spent many minutes talking and checking out the layout of the property. Our good friend and favorite server Christin had not arrived for work yet and Nino sat us at the best table in the house. A four-top at the window corner. Our server was smiley and well-spoken and described the specials to a tee. While we ate a regular customer called and asked for his special table (our table) and Nino apologetically explained that there were guests already seated at that table. 


We opted for the mussels’ appetizer in white wine.  Nino approached and recommended some salumi e fromaggi. A small plate of cured sausage and cheeses. That anti pasta was delivered immediately. A wonderful mix of soppressatta, pistachio cheese, olives and fig jam. The mussels were fresh and sweet and tender. Huge thin slices of garlic were reminiscent of the final minutes of the prison scene from the movie Goodfellas. Where Pauli would slice the garlic thin with a razor so it melted in the pan with just a little oil. I offer a link to that memorable scene. -  

Garlic with a razor    

SBCP ordered the Salmone e Puntarelli - Wild harvested salmon, gigandes beans, salmoriglio, kale, & tomato comfit.

My wife stated that the salmon was perfect. The skin removed and cooked perfectly. The beans were I thought butter beans, plump and delicious. And of course the kale was kale so she was happy.  

I enjoyed the Filletto di Branzino - Fregola, orange, fennel, asparagus, castelvetrano olives, & Sicilian salmoriglio, The filet was a whole fish, which was awesome. The Fregola was a pearl pasta reminiscent of Israeli Cous Cous. Plump and buttery and with a wonderful mouth feel.  

The entrees -

         

  

The entrées were spectacular. The service was attentive but not overwhelming. Christen arrived and more hugs and warm feelings were abundant. Nino and his staff were phenomenal.

We arrived early and were thankful for that. As we finished the restaurant began to fill up with their regular Sunday business.   

We felt blessed to have an awesome meal hosted by familiar friends and to have the ability to make new friends.

 

Osteria Da Nino Cucina Italiana & Bar a true gem tucked away in Shirlington VA. Great hosting, warm hospitality and wonderful food.

A link to their website - Osteriadaninova.

    

Thank you Nino for a great evening!

 

Nino and I -

 

 

TFN