Bi-Valves - They are tricky !

Oysters - Holy Cow !!!! Who exactly was the first one to say " Hey >>>> lets open that thing up. At the risk of cutting off a finger. Then slide its slippery, salty, slimy self to the back of our throat and swallow it whole." ( or some may chew a bit) Ever who done did do that the first time…. I must say…. Thank you very much ! It’s a bivalve, it’s a mollusk, it's a gift from God. Its world's filteration unit. As a bartender in many establishments where raw was right, I had the opportunity to see in person the first taste of many a bivalve virgin. The reaction varied from disgust and a quick run to the bathroom to the reflective "Hmmmm… and that was pretty good." Those who did not fight back may very well become eventual fans. Ok lets ID the perp first - a bivalve.The bivalves are marine and freshwater mollusks that have a laterally compressed body enclosed by a shell in two hinged parts. These tasty morsels includes the clams,oysters,mussels,scallopsand numerous other families. All true loves of mine… Like a Beatles song, I love them here there and everywhere. Or is that Doctor Seuss ? I will not expound upon the amazing scientific make up of these creatures. The spawning, the hermaphroditism, the excretory system, the fact that these organisms are the bottom feeding filtration system of the earth's waters. And they taste great ! I just want to talk about eating them. I pen this as I sit in a place called The Half Shell in Memphis Tn. This is the second location for the Half Shell, I have been to both and I go for the oysters. They pride themselves on serving oysters exclusively from the Gulf Coast. Normally I would usually just get a dozen raw ( on the Halfshell ) but here they Grill'Em &Stuff'Em & Bake'Em ! Grilled is simple- Parmesan Cheese & Butter They also serve Oysters Rockefeller flavored usually with an anise liquor (Pernod), Spinach and CheeseAnd Oysters Bienville -topped with shrimp sautéed in a rich reduction also topped with cheese.These fancy productions truly make the most of our calcium rich friends. I have loads more to say on this subject because I feel so obliged. But I will keep it short and sweet ( or briny ). Here is the way to sample your first oyster. Drink….. One or Two…. whatever is your usual. ( maybe 12). Try one….Plain ! if you don’t like it then drink more, and try another. Try these at home…. so if you really can't do it you are safe. Try grilled… raw….. smoked ( yuuuup !). Give the poor lowly filter of the oceans a shot. I heard a story while recently tending bar at a newly opened Raw Bar in the area. The guy says he made a couple of grand as a boat captain in the Chesapeake by relocating and then re-catching some " other than Chesapeake Oysters". He told of some businessmen who paid to have these shelleys flown in and wanted them planted in the bay for a few days. They say 4 days in any sustainable water will give the oyster the flavor and salinity on that specific region. At the time Chesapeake Oysters were the top of the food chain. Wars were fought over the farming of these marvelous little gnarly bundles of wonder. Many a diver has risked and sometimes lost their life while seeking the pearl. The Immortal Shakespeare told of the interaction of Falstaff and Pistol, in The Merry Wives of Windsor. Falstaff: I will not lend thee a penny.Pistol: Why then the world's mine oyster, Which I with sword will open.Falstaff: Not a penny. I am really not sure what is going on… but I bet one of these dudes evertually don't get to slurp some oysters with the Windsor Wives. That is what I am thinking…. I am doing some research on the myths and legend of my affliction. Months with "r's" in them and oysters only grown on the North side of trees and such. Stay posted and we will continue out dialogue. regarding this amazing freak of nature. Thanks LUVPEACE&HAIRGREASE Til' next time No Mad ........................ just happy

They have rolled away the stone.

Well 2940 page views and that’s without any fresh written action in a year. I must say somebody must like me ! I really hope it's not the same lonely dude sitting in a room somewhere with nothing better to do than hit on my blog over and over
again. ( UD is that you ? )
It’s the year 2012. I have to ask where exactly did the years go? Specifically 1987 and 1988? I seem to have
lost some of the details associated with those years. Granted I was single and working full time as a bartender in
lower Manhattan. Living with two quirky roommates a block off the beach in Rockaway. The money was great. The
fringes were better. I will not expound, my children may read this someday.
I have gone through some drastic transitions
this past year. I have grown and morphed, I have loved and learned, hurt and
healed, laughed and cried. I have again changed up on the day job. I have the best job in the world !
Better …. stronger ….. faster …. we can rebuild
him. And we have. Or we soon will.

I have quite recently put my arms around two of the most amazing people I have ever met in my life. These two people have more love to give and more things to share than anyone of us could imagine. The female is a bundle of electricity, determined, stubborn, confident, fast, furious, hungry and ready to pounce at any moment, like a small agile jungle cat.
This tiny human possesses the emotional strength and self-righteousness of Hillary Clinton combined with the studiousness of a young Charles Darwin,multiplied by the whimsy of a tiny Doctor Seuss. She examines and studies, pokes and prods and tastes things like the world depends on it.(and it does) She looks at you like she has all the answers. If God forbid you look away for a second, when you look back you become convinced that she does. (have the answers that is). She has her mother's beauty her father's patience. (sometimes).
She was named after a Saint and a State. She is heavenly and grounded at the same time.
The male is something altogether different. This one reminds me of the uncle. The tall lanky uncle. The people used to talk
about the uncle. They would say he was an "old soul". They would say he knew things innately that was not possible for his age.
This new small male also has these special powers. The power of the ages, the happiness of a thousand laughs, the curiousness of cat pawing at something just out of reach. His physical strength is also something highly unusual. For his age he clutches and grabs like someone twice his size. Left on his own he makes his
way across real estate that would normally require a passport. The eyes reflect an understanding and a recognition that you feel could not be possible from such a young person. Then you catch a sparkle of comprehension that makes you realize…. this boy is blessed.
These two have come to back home to spend some time. it is with great pleasure to have them here under my roof. I will watch them grow. I will love them. I will teach them, and they will teach me.

I Thank You Lord For These Blessings You Have Bestowed Upon Our Home. I ask only that you keep us all safe, healthy and free from harm's way.
Welcome Home to my Son - His Wife and my two beautiful grandchildren. Liam Walter and Clare Dakota.

More about food the next time around.

Thanks for following.... DS AKA TFN

GRAVY

Gravy - who could live without it ? Born of the caramelization of our meat juices and aromatics. Meat fat, juices and the "fond" found at the bottom of a roasting pan is the stuff of legend for your pan gravy. All meats are contenders. All manners of cooking are eligible ( as long as you can catch the juices). Roasting is preferred. I use a classic mirepoix for most gravies. Mirepoix is 50 % onion-25% carrot and 25 % celery. Use this classic French aromatic mix under your roasted meats at all times. However do not hesitate to try different combinations. Bell Peppers- Parsnip-Ginger-Garlic-Shallot-Scallion-Celery Root-Horseradish. I chop my aromatics and place them under the roasted meats. They shield the meat from burning on the bottom and create the base for your gravy. The drippings will help to cook the veggies and lay the foundation for your gravy.

Lets speak on the " Fond" for a minute. Deglazing is a fancy and intimidating word that means to pour some cold liquid into a very hot pan to get up all the brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Those brown bits are where the flavors concentrate, and it is called “fond.” Fond is French for “bottom".

After you have browned the meat and removed it from the pan, and allow to rest. Remove the excess fat. Heat the pan over medium-high heat as you add some deglazing liquid. The heat will help loosen and dissolve the really stubborn deposits as you scrape the pan with a straight edged metal spatula. The deglazing liquid can be wine, stock, almost any liquid, even water. I suggest wine for the initial deglaze and stock for the sauce. Do the deglaze and prepare to make the roux. Scrape the Bejesus out of the pan getting up all fond. The idea is to loosen up any bits of meat and all that "burned" on stuff that is stuck on the bottom of the pan and incorporate them into the liquid because they have lots of flavor. The resulting liquid will become the flavor in your gravy. Deglaze - and reduce lower heat. Allow the aromatics to cook fully. Here you may need to adjust the amount of fat- add or take away. Now you will make the roux. Add flour to the pan and mix thoroughly. You will need a 50/50 combination for fat and flour to create a solid roux. If there is not enough fat to coddle the flour please add more. Cook the roux. This is important. The more you cook the less thickening. The less you cook the less flavor. A golden color and a -sweet smell over the pan is preferred.

Now add your stock. Homemade or canned - try to have a good quality soup base in the fridge at all times. Base is reduced stock - a commercial Demi. Many flavors are available. Bear Creek is an excellent commercial brand that is available in almost all supermarkets. A spoonful will make an ok stock or soup into an unforgettable experience. Work that gravy in the pan with a whisk. break up any clumps of flour and incorporate the liquid into the sauce. Lower the heat and reduce the sauce. Simmer - simmer- simmer. Some chefs will strain some will not. I leave that to you. Taste your gravy and season accordingly. Finish with butter, cream, sour cream, and whisk in the finishing product.
If you allow the gravy to sit the fat will form a skin on top. Reheat slightly and re-whisk.

Salt and pepper to taste.

******** Give us this day our daily taste. Restore to us soups that spoons will not sink in and sauces which are never the same twice. Raise up among us stews with more gravy than we have bread to blot it with. Give us pasta with a hundred fillings. ********** Robert Farrar Capon

Love you all - keep reading - keep eating - keep feeding TFN

THE MEN YOU

I consider myself a wordsmith. I love finding a new word and researching it to discover its meaning and sometime origin. I love to hate finding a misspelling on a menu when I go out to eat. I can usually find one. I recently have visited a local new high end Italian place where I caught a couple.

The French Onion Soup was made with Camelized onions. - Apparently they rubbed the onions on the humps for flavor. I asked the waitress if these dromedaries were African or Egyptian. In other words " One Hump or Two " ?

Chicken Cacciatore was printed as Caca..... ; which loosely translated means chicken shit. I passed on that one.

The word Ristorante was spelled three different ways, from being etched on the front door to the menus.

On the specials board they advertized Prong Shrimp, which were really just a jumbo shrimp cocktail offering from the raw bar. I guess they were trying to say prawns, which generally are freshwater shrimp. If you order these be cautious not to prick yourself.

I recently read a banquet menu that stated "free hors will be served" I am glad someone is footing the bill.

A pre-packaged product at a local bodega : Breakfast Supper Burrito, this product was made with Sassage, Harsh Browns, Ham, Eggs, and Cheese. The weiners are made with extra ass and a little sage. While most spuds are duds these taters are pissed. Now you can have your midnight snack at noon.

On some "Chinatown Menus"

- Chicken Anal Sphincter Stew. Served still quivering, no more- no less.

- Hot and Spicy Dick Heart - Under poultry, Starring Mel Glibson.

- Garlic Softshell Crap - At least its softshell, I hate my crap crunchy.

While having lunch in Albany with my buddy Rod several years ago we encountered a deep fried perch sandwich served " fresh from the sea" . I took advantage of that opportunity to ask the server: " Is the shark steak harpooned or caught in a net?" She went to check with the kitchen, she has still not come back.

How about Dreaded Veal Cutlet ? Are you hesitant to order or is it cooked Rastafarian style?

Scared Salmon with Lemon Butter ? Don't be afraid it has Omega 3.

Candid Yams- At least they are On-ist.

Granted, some non English food items can be difficult to spell. But there are resources.

When I opened Lighthouse Catering in Willimantic I picked up a copy of the Food Lovers Companion. This became a staple in the next several kitchens. Today however the internet is your resource for correct spelling of all food items. Do you have a recent or favorite menu typo ? Share....

"Sex is good, but not as good as fresh, sweet corn." ~Garrison Keillor

I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST. TFN

Dads Rock

Nomadders - It is a warm sunny day in Virginia. Saint Patrick has smiled down upon us and blessed us with fine weather. I feel fortunate for this. The homestead is filled with the sweet , aromatic scent of simmering corned beef. The ears are filled with songs of the Wolfetones, the Chieftains, Van Morrison, Tommy Makem, The Clancy Brothers, and the Pogues.
If you know the Pogues, excuse his teeth he's been working on them.
HAPPY SAINT PATRICKS DAY TO YOU ALL !

God Bless your culture and heritage no matter -Irish or other.

Our patron Saint drove the nasty snakes from Ireland. With my blog today I would like to drive the love of your ancestry into your hearts. Irish, Italian, German, American Indian, Polish, - wherever your people hail from … celebrate that… that place…. that culture… that food.

As Crosby, Stills and Nash say Teach your children …. Teach your children well.
I know where my mother's people come from. Within a mile >>> Do you ? Do your children know where their grandparents and great grandparents come from ? Does your son or daughter know what your national dish is ????

Brazil - Feijoada, Norway- Farikil, Germany- Sauerbraten, Greece- Moussaka.

Can those children do a national dance or sing a song from their country of origin ?
Listen up… We are all American, tried and true. But this country was built on religious and cultural freedom. Figure it out, and share it with those with those to whom it matters. I truly am blessed to be who I am and where I am from. I cherish that. I share it with my relatives and children. Love who you are and love those who are like you. Love those who are not like you more.

UD says his dad used to frequent an Italian place that would serve corned beef parmagiana. The Randazzo brothers ran this place. Joe and Phil. It was in Milburn L.I. . Another neighborhood place.

Lets salute the dads out there. Keep in mind- Dads are far from perfect. We try our best
v Eugene
v Ernest
v Donald
v Edward T. 1 and 2

Let's ask the Dads to carry on the traditions. I love you all. Keep the faith.

Noooooooooo Madddddddd

Happy St. Patricks Day- Corned Beef and Cabbage

First lets cast any off any images of Mom or Grandma dumping all ingredients in a huge pot and simmering for the day. Each component has it's own adult swim planned to assure doneness without ruining the specific texture and taste. We must begin with a good cut of cured brisket. Flat cut is preferred and just because you are boiling the product does not mean you should get the cheapest brand available. The week before you will see signs for sales. Don’t be afraid to spend a few cents more on a brand that you see all year long. If you are fortunate to live near a meat distributor or one of these "old school " butcher shops that have popped up give them a try to see if they do their own curing.

This is for a cured (brined) raw corned beef. The meat will lose up to 30 % weight in cooking time, so adjust accordingly. 4-5 ounces of meat per person for the first run. 3-4 ounces of meat for sandwiches later on.

· 3-5 pounds corned beef brisket with spice packet
· 10 medium whole white potatoes peeled and soaked
· 3 lbs whole large carrots, peeled and cut into 3-4 inch pieces ( long on the bias)
· 1 large head cabbage, core removed cut into small wedges
· 1 tsp. whole peppercorns
· 2 tbs. pickling spice
· 1 large onion chopped
· 6 cloves fresh garlic rough cut
· 2 whole bay leaves
· Caraway seeds ( optional)

Fill a large pot with cold water. Add corned beef, spice packet, onion, garlic, pickling spice, pepper corns, and bay leaves. Bring to a slow boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer uncovered for 45-55 minutes per pound of meat. When meat is firm but tender remove and place into shallow pan and cover with some broth. Skim broth to remove fatty scum. ( yes I said fatty scum) Keep the pan covered tightly with foil until service. Place potatoes, and carrots into pot and top with cabbage. Cover and simmer for 20-25 minutes or until potatoes are fork tender.
Serve all components separately. You can mix the carrots and cabbage. Toss caraway seeds to taste over cabbage. A little melted butter and fresh parsley over the potatoes never hurt anyone.
Serve with a hearty rye bread and whole grain mustard sauce.

Whole Grain Mustard Sauce

4 oz Maille or another whole grain mustard
3 oz corned beef broth
a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce
1 ounce Guinness
Combine all ingredients, serve warm.

So Meg's question was how to keep the corned beef hot and serve it sliced without it drying out. Slice the corned beef on a bias against the grain of the meat. Reassemble the briskets intact (the whole corned beef) sliced. Place the whole sliced briskets into holding pan. Ladle over enough broth to cover 1/3. Get everything done and into covered chafing dishes no earlier than 1 hour prior to chow time. Keep them on warm and tightly covered until service. If using sternos use only 1 per pan. The meat, sliced but whole will keep the moisture in the product. Meg we wish you and yours in Williamsburg a Happy Saint Patrick's Day.

Sláinte - TheFoodNomad

Food of the land, Land of food. Foodography , or the study of who eats what - where.
First off I am a neighborhood guy. I love neighborhoods. Mostly small enclaves in cities where people live, work and eat. These neighborhoods allow small business to prosper. I hear there is a "walkability " factor for young couples searching for places to live of late. Or better put, how much of what we need can we get without ever starting the car. What a great concept. It is truly old school. I also love the culture and history of food and the stories of how the people settled where they landed and made the most of what they had available locally. From these stories and this history grew the great Pizza Shops, and Delicatessens, Taverns, Coffee Shops, Diners, Restaurants, Markets and Butchers of our Grandparent's day. I love a neighborhood place. It seems that as we evolve these sweat equity businesses get fewer and further between. Pizza Uno, Fridays, Olive Garden and Starbucks and the like have crushed the small business. Where did the local guy go ? They are still out there toiling and putting out great food, some of them for many years. Time tested recipes and methods handed down for generations. A meat sauce cooked low and slow with caramelized beef neck bones simmered right in the sauce. A German Potato Salad made old style with ALL the drippings from the bacon for the dressing. Fresh mozzarella and house made marinara sauce seasoned with no salt because the fat guy making the sauce sweated so much that the perspiration seasoned the sauce with enough salt from his brow.

THAT’S WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT !

My neighborhood in Cypress Hills - East New York was chock full of these neighborhood places. The neighborhood was sliced into sections by the El ( elevated subway) that was the J. The J train that tore through the streets like a screaming, sparking dragon suspended on steel and concrete columns. This neighborhood was chock full of characters, stories, crimes, passion and good eats. I recall as a kid being sent for a haircut with $3.00. I chose to try the three local pizza shops in a one hour period to see which one had the best slice of Sicilian. I then went to my friend Gaspar's house and borrowed a pair of scissors and proceeded to butcher my bowl cut to cover my crime. A food critic was born. Rita was not happy.

The London Squire- Fulton St. seafood place with the first lobster tank I had ever seen in my life. They had a counter where you could get fried shrimp with real tartar sauce.

Getzlemans Deli - Fulton St. on Fulton street between Crescent and where nothing came in five gallon buckets and the salads were made by folks elbow deep in mayo and vinegar. My brother-in -law Richard got me my second job there stocking shelves at 13.

Longs Ice Cream Parlor - a full counter - and booths in the back- killer Jukebox-owned by the Long family who were local politicians and whose kids I went to school with. A great burger - good fries and a milk shake where they left the stainless mixing glass at the table.

Jacques Pizza- where you could get 2 slices and a small coke for $1.00 and get 20 cents change to land some zeppole for dessert. ( 1977-1978 )

Joe's You Got It All- on Jamaica Ave next to Cypress Pool had the wooden summer doors that opened out onto the Avenue and a full L shaped counter. The real deal. Grab a cup of coffee and a buttered hard roll before you catch the J train. Or get a grilled cheese at the counter with a cup of real tomato soup.

Bruno's - Italian joint on Jamaica Ave toward Richmond Hill. My mother ( God rest her soul) must have went 100 times and always got the Veal Parmigianino. House rolled pasta and fresh baked bread.

There was a German Butcher on Nichols Ave and Etna St. I vividly remember the huge man behind the counter with the blood stained apron. He would ask as he sliced the cold cuts " sonny vould you like a piece for your hand ? "

I always said yes.

So maybe this blog has morphed into MY neighborhood places, which is OK because they are worth the mention .
I bid you all a farewell and be well.
Next up the perfect Corned Beef and Cabbage Dinner.

TheFoodNomad